Vivienne Westwood’s contribution to modern fashion runs from punk to pearls. But the item that perhaps defines her legacy, the corset, is once again enjoying a moment in the fashion spotlight.
An exhibition of the late designer’s corsets is being hosted by the brand’s flagship store in Mayfair during London Craft Week this month.
It charts the history of her creations, from the first corset she produced in the mid-80s to those from her most recent collection before her death in December.
The show will also include those created by her partner and husband, Andreas Kronthaler, providing insight into how Westwood developed this signature item over decades.
It is good timing: corsets have become fashionable again in recent years, seen in the Netflix series Bridgerton and its spin-off Queen Charlotte, at brands including Schiaparelli, Fendi and KNWLS, and worn by celebrities such as Adele, Billie Eilish and the model Bella Hadid.
Vintage Westwood corsets are highly prized. A 1993 design, featuring a François Boucher print, costs more than £32,000 on 1stdibs; a new Westwood corset is about £725.
The designer reinvented the corset by updating a structure that dates to the 18th century.
Dolce Cioffi, a heritage manager who worked on the exhibition, said: “Vivienne literally revolutionised corsets; she did it with the eyes of the modern era.
“She was the first one who did underwear as outerwear. She revolutionised the way we perceive something that was repressive and that was made into a tool of female empowerment.”
Historical research was central to Westwood’s craft, Cioffi added: “By referencing the old, you create the new – this is what she used to say.”
The exhibition begins with the Portrait corset, a relatively simple design that Westwood debuted in her 1987 autumn/winter collection, which the brand still produces today.
Westwood removed the whale bones traditionally used in the corset, added stretch fabric at the side and replaced the lacing at the back with a zip, providing much more freedom of movement.
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Also on display are three corsets designed for men that were inspired by King Charles II and bikers, and a dress worn by the actor Lupita Nyong’o that combines a corset with a skirt made from a single piece of crystal-beaded chiffon, showcasing Westwood’s zero-waste cutting method.
Corsets for men have been gaining popularity – Bad Bunny, a Puerto Rican rapper, wore a corset hoodie while performing at the Coachella music festival – but they have been part of the Westwood repertoire since the 90s.
The exhibition’s highlight is two corset jackets embroidered with glass beads to represent the male torso.
They were part of the first menswear show in Milan in 1996 and created in collaboration with Mr Pearl, the corsetier who famously developed an 18in waist from wearing corsets.
Cioffi said: “Andreas wore this jacket for the after-dinner of the show. He loves this sort of thing – the more constricted, the better!”
Kronthaler’s enthusiasm for the male corset also translated into his creations. His version – designed for spring/summer 2020 – is also on display.
Cioffi said: “Vivienne was a pioneer of unisex. Andreas came up with the idea of developing a corset that was made to fit the [male] body rather than readapting a female structure.
“We are supposed to change our shape to have children. The structure of the male body is stiffer.”
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The exhibition runs until 21 May at Westwood’s flagship boutique at 44 Conduit Street, central London.