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by Navyata Bansal
The retail industry is susceptible to every disaster coming its way but COVID-19 was not one of them. The pandemic has shaken the core of the industry and changed consumer behavior benefiting the local Indian industry the most. Consumers all over the world were overwhelmed with anxiety and stress regarding international produce and its uncertainty. They shifted their paradigm to a more local market, which in turn led to a spike in homegrown brands and improved ideals.
“Made in India,” is a common label in the U.S., the UAE and China, accounting for almost $52 billion in export. But in India, that tag means much more — it’s a symbol of pride. However, the pandemic changed the course of the supply chain and disrupted international manufacturing, this led to a disruption of supply despite a skyrocketing demand. The market was suffering and the needs were not being met. That’s when many entrepreneurs saw this as a growing need and capitalized on it.
Apart from booming profits, entrepreneurs also saw the sociocultural add ons. India depends on its skilled artisans and handloom industry. According to the All India Handloom Census 2020, there are more than 3 million artisans and households that depend on the handloom industry for daily wages, denoting struggle. Many entrepreneurs saw this as a way to support the culture of their land. It was their time to empower their local artisans, craftsman and especially women. Anita Dongre, a contemporary bridal Indian designer, was one of the first to capitalize artisans in 1995. She was one of the first designers to support the skills and art of India. She now has almost seven brands in her portfolio. She was later followed by many, but the real growth was in 2020. And people are liking it.
Other than the cultural aspect, consumers are looking to be more socially responsible. They want to give back to the environment and want to be able to trust their loved brands. They look for businesses that meet their needs and are socially responsible. H&M and Zara were popular brands, but the shift declined the demand in these stores and increased growth in new Indian brands. Some saw it as a way to save the earth, and some saw it as a way to remain “vocal for local.”
Some brands flourished in 2020 because of their honest approach and navigation in the local market. Here are some of our favorites:
Urban Suburban
This womens’ wear brand is the perfect sustainable substitute for ZARA. The company started in 2017 but saw real growth after being featured in Indian fashion blogger Masoom Minawala’s Instagram. Their classy silhouettes paired with Indian aesthetics and body inclusivity is what made them stand out. They are the perfect mix between Indian culture and western standards.
Dhruv Kapoor
This Indian designer has been one of the first designers to embrace street fashion with a pinch of Indian culture. He has revolutionized fashion while highlighting the importance of self-expression. He started his brand in 2013 but started gaining momentum in 2018 when he appeared in GQ’s “50 Most Influential Young Indians.” People started loving his aesthetics because of his quirkiness and the unique vibe he brought. He constantly embraces diverse cultures — India being one he often focuses on.
Dash and Dot
Dash and Dot is a brand that is synonymous with luxury, class and exclusivity. With an unlimited range of categories and a widespread popularity Dash and Dot is soon becoming a household name. This brand encapsulates the styles of western wear and local artisans. They became famous for their gender-neutral clothing and its sexiness. Their categories range from swimwear to workwear and are loved by millennials and Gen-Z.
Duet Luxury
India has always been famous for its embroidery work and potlis (small handbags with drawstrings). This Calcutta-based brand has brought the two together to design and handcraft handbags for the modern consumer. They gained admiration for their mixed materials, unconventional handcrafting and unique embellishments. They now have added belts to their product line, and customers have loved that too. Their features in publications like Harper’s Bazaar, Brides Today and Cosmopolitan have made them a favorite for the Indian bride and people wanting to make a fashion statement.
Kapraaha (Translates to fabric)
This clothing label captures Indian handicrafts and textiles. Anushree saraf started Kapraaha to boast Indian artisans. She continues to pay homage to crafts from Gujarat and Rajasthan with block-printing and bandhani. She always believed in the idea of comfort and luxury, which is why she brought the two together with her brand. Kapraaha includes categories like Indian suits, tops and co-ord sets. Her resort summer collection is one of my favorites. The delicacy and femininity of kaftan is something that every wardrobe needs and every person wants.
The list can go on and on. The future of Indian retail is something we, as Indian fashion students, are looking forward to. Watching the incredible momentum of this movement over the past few years has been unbelievable and exciting. It is not limited to traditional Indian wear but constantly gaining admiration as it expands its reach worldwide. The growth is a boon for fashion lovers as well as the economy. The export market for India will grow exponentially, not only in textiles but also in retail. The future looks promising, and so does the Indian fashion industry.
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