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“I wanted to mix traditional Korean garments with European ones, so I asked for the entire list of the European costumes and mannequins the V&A owns to figure out what to match,” says acclaimed stylist Suh Younghee of her contribution. For Hallyu!, she combines multiple layers of summer hanbok underskirts, underpants and under jackets with an 18th-century European hoop skirt to create a unique look called Beyond Underwear. Meanwhile, Tchai Kim, who pioneered the “fashion hanbok” movement to give an elevated status to traditional costumes (her dresses are most coveted for Korean brides), has transformed a cheollik, or men’s riding coat, into an exquisite women’s ensemble using luxurious silk.
You can glimpse into the future of K-fashion with works from young designers, too. Ji Won Choi’s hanbok-influenced leisurewear, made in collaboration with Adidas in 2019, has been worn by Beyoncé. Freshly graduated from Central Saint Martins, Sohee Park of Miss Sohee is being heralded as a new-gen couturier. Her sculptural silhouettes are carefully crafted and embroidered by hand using deadstock and recycled fabric.
With so much flux and contrast in Korean culture, it is a challenging task to cover so many facets, and at times there is a lack of cohesion in the staging. However, throughout Hallyu!, there is an abundance of dynamic energy on display that echoes that of Korea itself. It will make you want to dance and sing – and it will make you want to remix like Koreans do.
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