In their own words Jacqueline Zanere, Giorgia Viola, Allisa Swanson, and Micaela Erlanger open up about how they’re faring with little to no events, and what needs to change for fashion stylists and costume designers
In May when the Writers Guild of America (WGA) strike started, it caught the attention of those in the film industry but business carried on as usual for the Cannes Film Festival. The only threat during this time was a French energy union, BFMTV who threatened to turn off the electricity during the famed festival, in order to get the attention of local and elected politicians over President Macron wanting to raise the retirement age, something a lot of people in the country are opposed to. But, when the actors under the SAG-AFTRA union started their strike in July, the attention of the world has been snagged, and business has not carried on as usual for those connected to the world of film. Hollywood is at a standstill for the most part, and this has trickled down to celebrity stylists and costume designers.
Vendors from dry cleaners, to food truck companies, and consultants whose businesses revolve around film studios are all impacted by this strike. While these vendors and stylists stand in solidarity with the writers and actors, their lives are headed for a free fall if the WGA and SAG-AFTRA doesn’t reach a negotiated deal with the Alliance of Motion Picture and Television Producers (AMPTP). Forbes staffer, Antonio Pequeño IV, has delved into the details of the strike in an informative article.
The last time the writers and actors went on strike together was 1960 and that strike lasted two years. Some stylists have had to resort to drastic measures with some thinking that they may be forced to leave their passion in this part of fashion. Waiting things out for two years or anything close to it just simply isn’t an option for many, even those with top talent as clients, or those who costume design for major productions, like Allisa Swanson. It’s also August, a notoriously dry month for fashion, so it’s a double whammy for stylists at the moment as most of Europe, especially southern Europe- the engine for the fashion industry are out of the office.
Jacqueline Zenere, celebrity fashion stylist
“I had about six jobs that evaporated overnight and we had press tours on the horizon, which would have been about another 10 looks. I only have one job this month and typically I have a job a week, if not two. It has been extremely drastic,” says Jacqueline Zenere. Getting a start in fashion, firstly in editorial for W Magazine, then later as a styling editor for Modern Luxury, and later as a celebrity stylist.
“Some stylists have been good about diversifying their clientele and having musicians and having influencers. But in my background I have always leaned towards actresses so I’m especially suffering right now,” she continues. Her clients include actors Elizabeth Olsen, Kyra Sedgwick, Liza Koshy, Devery Jacobs, Alyssa Jirrels, and Hayden Panettiere to name a few.
Celebrity fashion stylist Jacqueline Zenere.
Photo Credit: Jacqueline Zenere/ Instagram
Comparing the strike to the pandemic, Zenere says the strike is worse. “The worst part in all this is that we don’t have access to an unemployment fund like the actors and writers do, and we can’t file for unemployment. It’s scary. During the pandemic business was still going on, clients were producing for social media, and we were able to supplement if things got scary with the $1800 stimulus check. But, there are no jobs and no money to fall back on. We’re in a freefall and from what I’m hearing the mayor of Los Angeles and the Governor of California will get involved, and I hope President Biden will get involved. It’s not just me, vendors are also affected.”
For Zenere, she has had to resort to Uber as a means for bringing in income. And for someone with a bachelor’s degree to fall back on, the lingering question is: ‘is it worth it?’ Those in the fashion world will tell you, from the design side, to the editorial side, the beauty side, and even the photography side, the industry doesn’t pay well. Unless you have reached the top echelons of success where you’re sought after in your craft, the pay is horrible. From my conversations with other fashion journalists and freelancers, many are able to do what they do because they have a partner who is financially more stable. And for stylists who aren’t feeling the sting right now, it’s most likely safe to say they have partners or some sort of wealth pad to catch them. But for the single people, like Zenere, times are hard.
So, in terms of how much she’s willing to take, “That is the million-dollar question,” she says.
“Conan O’Brien famously said, when he lost his job at NBC ‘I believe if you’re kind, you work hard, and you’re nice to people you will succeed.’ I’ve given thirteen years of my life and countless sacrifices to be where I’m at, and to resort to driving for Uber is tremendously”- she pauses as she searches for the right word- “is detrimental to my mental health. On one hand I’m proud that I have the grit to problem solve. I know that what I do, to a lot of people who are not in media or this business, this all sounds frivolous and it doesn’t sound serious. But, no matter what you do for your vocation, if it helps others and is something that is cared about by that person, they should have the right to be paid in a way that allows them to live. While I’ve had jobs and while I’ve had business, at thirty-five, I’ve not been able to reach financial security.”
Last week, actor and singer Billy Porter shared he had to sell his house. “The life of an artist, until you make ‘f**king money,’ which I haven’t made yet, is still check-to-check.’”
“With this added stress it has made me question everything,” says Zenere. “What would truly break my heart is that the decision is made for me, that’s it, I can no longer do this. My skillset is so niche and over these years and it doesn’t really translate, nor are these jobs growing on trees so the competition is out of this world.”
She lives one day at a time because anything more is too stressful for her. “Today I’m ok financially, a month from now I’ll be ok financially, but when October comes my only options are to move home or Uber full time. The problem with Uber’ing full time is that it’s still not going to cover my expenses to be a thirty-five-year-old adult- especially with inflation.
Diversifying is key. The saying “don’t put your eggs in one basket,” is thought to originate from the novel Don Quixote. Because when everyone is going after the same jobs, there’s only so much to go around. As a stylist it’s good to have different types of clientele and Zenere understands this. She’s looking to delve into TikTok to better understand her audience, she wants to take on more private clients, and do somethings with the general public. She and other stylists understand the importance of not relying on the film industry. “I just don’t have full confidence in the industry. If they are (referring to the AMPT) having a hard time appreciating their own partners (meaning actors) that they rely on to create, I cannot imagine them valuing sub-creatives that bring value to their creatives,” she says.
Giorgia Viola, a French based fashion consultant
The strikes reach is being felt in Europe. The Venice Film Festival will not likely have any A-list actors attending, so no styling opportunities for stylists and consultants there who work with top American talent. Giogia Viola is one of these. “The strike has and will definitely affect the styling business, and the absence of the big names in film will inevitably be felt,” she says. “It’s a situation with a point of no return in which all actors and professionals are involved directly or indirectly. That said, the Venice film festival is too of an important rendezvous, and despite everything we are happy to be present and renew our collaboration with the Evok Group at the newly opened Nolinski Hotel with a fashion showroom.”
Fashion consultant Giorgia Viola.
Photo provided by Giorgia Viola
Viola has worked with top talent from Sarah Jessica Parker, Jin Xuan Mao from Emily In Paris, Ellie Goulding, Olivia Palermo, Maja Malnar, Leonie Hanne, Victoria Swarovski, Rochelle Humes, Maria de Medeiros from Pulp Fiction, Aissatou Diallo, Hannah Oldenburg Eugenia Kuzmina, Inna Modja, Sunny Leone, and others.
While it’s unforeseeable when she will be working with her American clientele again, she sees the strike as a new challenge to navigate. “To be present with the awareness of a continuous precariousness, to be in solidarity with actors and screenwriters, but without forgetting that Venice needs its film festival and that it was here in Venice that the Lumiere brothers shot, immortalizing from a vaporetto in the grand canal the first moving picture in the history of cinema is important. With the show must go on attitude, she states“we have to believe because things could work out favorably, even at the last minute and because in all cases, cinema must continue to be talked about.”
Allisa Swanson, costume director and president of the Canadian Alliance of Film and Television Costume Arts and Design (CAFTCAD)
Costume designer Allisa Swanson on set.
Photo provided by Allisa Swanson
Allisa Swanson is the costume designer for Netflix’s Firefly Lane, where she designed looks that expanded over 4 decades for the show. She also created Marcia Gay Harden’s power suits on Paramount Plus’s show, So Help Me Todd, as well as ABC’s Once Upon A Time, and Disney+’s Turner & Hooch. She even did costume design work for the 2010 Winter Olympics. She unpacks how the current strike has affected her and other costumer designers. She wrapped season 1 of So Help Me Todd for CBS and Paramount+ in May, but it looks like it will be another eleven months before season 2 begins shooting.
“I was supposed to go back to So Help Me Todd on June 14 for a twenty-two-episode season. Obviously, we did not go back and that will also mean a shorter season when we do,” says Swanson. “The longer the strike goes, the less episodes we will do. There is also the concern that if the strike were to go to January 2024, they may push the entirety of season 2 to a June 2024 start date. That means over a year without work, or possibly having to take something else and not going back to the show I really enjoy.”
While creatives understand that emergency funds are a must, if the strike goes on longer than expected it would be a problem Swanson explains “Film industry people generally have a rule to save up for 6 months, just in case of strikes or a slowdown in work. Unfortunately, this strike has coincided with massive inflation for groceries, gas, and increased mortgage rates, so what would have been a solid 6-month back up last year, has dwindled to 3 months, or less. Besides, who really wants to have to go through all their savings? Some of my colleagues have gone back to previous careers (nursing, waiters, etc.); some have headed over to the UK to see if they can get work on a production over there. The lucky few have taken super low budget Canadian projects that have not been affected by the strike.”
A lot of costumers have been also cutting back on extraneous costs. The silver lining in all this for Swanson is that while production has stopped, she is able to spend time with her two kids and enjoy a summer off at their family cabin in British Columbia, something she calls a rarity. But, if work doesn’t start coming in by mid-September, “I will most likely start panicking,” she says. “Once my kids are back in school, if this strike is still going, I will definitely have to consider a side hustle.” As a result of everything, she’s going out on less outings, cancelled all apps and all extraneous memberships- only keeping professional memberships. Back to school shopping was reduced to the necessities.
“I am the President of CAFTCAD, and we have seen a large number of members not renew this year because they just don’t feel they can spend any extra money. All of the members who didn’t renew mentioned that as soon as the strike is over they will be coming right back,” she says. The CAFTCAD has had sponsors pull back, so they are looking outside of the film industry, to partners with companies that want promote the arts and costume arts. “We learned in the pandemic that entertainment is crucial and is for some, an essential service. CAFTCAD is a place for learning, growth, and networking within our community. So, even with the strike, the Board and I are working hard to keep it growing for the costume storytellers of today, tomorrow, and the generations to come,” she says.
Allisa is spending her days focused on her role at the CAFTCAD, something she does on a volunteer basis. She’s an inspiring script writer and taking time to rewrite her first script and start on a second, as well as start her first novel. If the strike goes anything close to two years, Swanson says she and many of her fellow costume designers will have to pivot to find work in different industries.
Micaela Erlanger, celebrity fashion stylist
Celebrity stylist Micaela Erlanger.
Photo Credit: Michaela Erlanger/ Instagram
She counts Lupita Nyong’o, Diane Kruger, Olivia Culpo, and Saheem Ali as some of her clients. Micaela Erlanger has positioned herself not to be hit by directly by crises. Juggling her lucrative styling agency with school, she took on the extra work and dedicated herself to Harvard University’s Program for Leadership Development, the equivalency to an Executive MBA.
If the pandemic taught us anything, it’s that we must always have a plan to take care of ourselves, so Erlanger diversified by maintaining her styling business, going back to school- which included taking a private equity course, and launching other business ventures. While many are being hit by the strike, Erlanger leveled up and has been able to slightly dodge the hit. “The strikes have essentially cancelled the red carpet and for many stylists it means a halt to business,” says Erlanger. “I thankfully have a strong consulting business and work with other types of talent aside from Actors, so I’ve been ok. My heart goes out to peers who are focused solely on this line of work.”
Continuing, “I have a robust consulting business, which I grew in the pandemic as well as my own endorsement contracts. Thankfully that has been able to sustain me,” she says.
So, even if the strike goes anything close to the WGA and SAG-AFTRA strike of 1960, she’s prepared. “I embrace change – I think creatives are some of the most resilient and resourceful individuals. I just finished Harvard Business School this year and am excited to put my degree to use.”
Celebrity fashion stylists calling for their own union
“What has been exciting about this strike is a discussion about a union. It’s something I thought about years ago and everyone told me, it’s not going to happen,” says Zanere. There are stylist like Zanere, Erlanger, and Swanson who are proponents of a celebrity stylists union. The former two have organized themselves with an Instagram group, @celebritystylistunion. Other celebrity stylists like Jessica Paster, Alvin Stillwell, Adele Cany, and many others follow the group.
“I absolutely think this is necessary. The entire styling business is unregulated and in need of reform,” says Erlanger. “It would allow for there to be protections and benefits that are necessary for us.”
“In terms of a union, in discussing rates, Netflix only pays us $500 per look, which is immeasurably below average,” says Zanere. “So, what happens is that the talent has to pay out of pocket, or we as stylists take it but we’re essentially paying to do the job. When a celebrity has a promotional event, Netflix will hire a stylist to dress that talent for $500 per look.” If that stylist hires an assistant, according to Zenere, their rate, the assistant is $250-300 a day. After federal and state taxes, and also paying an agent, shipping fees, tailoring fees, and transportation costs, stylists like Zenere are left with almost nothing- or sometimes nothing. “If we unionize I hope there would be discussions on there being a minimum look rate that has to be made.”
For Swanson, costume designers are affiliated with a union so she’s not totally left out in the cold, but does feel the breeze. “The Costume Designers Guild (CDG) in the US is an IATSE Union, specifically for costume designers, assistant designers, and illustrators. In Canada, we are members of IATSE along with electricians, painters, artists, and hair stylists — basically all other below the line workers,” she says.
“There have been challenges in the union in the past as the largest membership is made up of construction workers and painters. Those are two departments that do not work set hours, they generally work 7am – 5pm, or to 7pm, Monday through Friday. They have contributed to a vote away from night premiums, triple time, and weekend premiums — all the things that don’t pertain to a 7am to 7pm job. I am not sure having our own union would help us, unless we were able to align with the CDG and they could expand their reach. We are still fighting gender roles and the costume department is still considered a woman-dominated department. Unfortunately, even in 2023, it can put us at a disadvantage in negotiations, which is what sparked the #NakedWithoutUs campaign — this was started by the CDG and its members for equality,” says Swanson.
But she does think celebrity stylists would benefit from their own union. One thing the creative industry teaches, whether you’re a fashion designer, stylists, or costume designer is that diversification is key. All your eggs can’t be put in one basket so planning and creating scalable ways of income reduces panic and stress for when the hard times hit. Jacqueline Zanere, Giorgia Viola, Allisa Swanson, and Micaela Erlanger are fashion industry stalwarts who exude resilience and remind creatives that with life’s uncomfortable re-directive moments, this too shall pass.
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