Take a look at some of the most influential and exciting parts of American culture—from music to sports to entertainment—and you’re bound to see Who Decides War. The New York-based brand is a favorite of rappers, athletes, and A-listers who are drawn to the expressive, eye-catching designs of Ev Bravado and his partner Téla D’Amore. But it’s not all flash with no foundation. Who Decides War is the pair’s interpretation of Americana, a representation of their view of modern Black culture in the States, and it’s garnering industry accolades as well as celebrity cosigns. As of a couple of weeks ago, Who Decides War was named one of 10 finalists for the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and the brand shows no signs of slowing down.
Below, Bravado and I discuss the brand’s inception and growth, Bravado’s relationship with the late Virgil Abloh, supporting his friend’s brands, and plenty more.
Fit One
“I guess it’s just a life calling,” Bravado says of his work. “My dad’s a tailor and I grew up in a tailor shop. My uncle’s a tailor. My grandparents on my father’s sides were tailors and seamstresses. So I was always around clothes since the beginning of life.”
“Who Decides War is really a voice and a lens of people of color, of Americana—what Americana is today—because it is different than what it was 20 years ago or 50 years ago,” Bravado says. “It’s ever-evolving. When you really think about it, we are the culture, we are America.”
Tell me about Who Decides War. What about your background led you to start your own brand?
I guess it’s just a life calling. My dad’s a tailor and I grew up in a tailor shop. My uncle’s a tailor. My grandparents on my father’s sides were tailors and seamstresses. So I was always around clothes since the beginning of life. My first memories were watching Arthur in a tailor shop…PBS Kids, eating Wendy’s. I didn’t think that I would be designing clothes. That was my dad’s dream and my uncle’s dream. So it was a natural calling. I feel like it’s just a combination of all of my ancestors’ work. And at the end of the day, I create because there’s a void inside of me that I need to fill, of what I’m not seeing in the world. And even once it’s there, I feel like that vision can always be redefined. Who Decides War is really a voice and a lens of people of color, of Americana—what Americana is today—because it is different than what it was 20 years ago or 50 years ago. It’s ever-evolving. When you really think about it, we are the culture, we are America. And as much as people don’t want to really put that to the forefront, we know what it is. That’s what we’re here for.
How did you grow Who decides War to what it is today?
For me and my partner Téla, it was really a lot of soul-searching and figuring out what we wanted from the brand, and what we wanted the brand to be, and what we wanted the brand to be after us. I think the most important thing was figuring out what we wanted it to be after us so we know how to get there. At the end of the day, it is just really taking things step by step. No detail goes unchecked. The real attention to detail, and attention to what the customer wants, and customer feedback, has been a reason why we’re able to have sustainable growth.
Fit Two
Sunglasses by Loewe, jacket and jeans by Who Decides War, vintage Michael Jackson tour T-shirt, skirt by Kusikohc, and Terminator sneakers by Nike.
Let’s talk about your relationship with Virgil. How did you meet? How did you collaborate? And what did you learn from him?
I met V…it seems like yesterday, but it was early 2018, I believe. Me and Heron [Preston], we were doing a workshop out in Paris, and Virgil was just peeping what was going on. Because he was a master of everything—master of culture, master of fashion, and just merging everything—he understood at that time that I was on the verge of something cool and he wanted me to be a part of whatever he was doing. I was immensely blessed to be able to be put into the fold at that point, because it is something that changed my life. To see those first moments of him at LV in the office before they changed the carpets, it’s something that I will get to tell my son, Judah, and tell his kids when I’m older and hopefully when we’re looked at in the same regard. That’s how it starts. And I think the biggest thing I learned from this is just how to move with grace.
Fit Three
Sunglasses by Loewe, parka by Alex Digenova, vintage Billy Ray Cyrus T-shirt, pants by Who Decides War, Terminator sneakers by Nike.
“There’s no preparing for the madness that is a fashion show,” Bravado says. “I mean, it’s like any other production, whether it’s a play or a concert or a football game or the national championship. You work until you get to that moment and then you just leave it all out on the floor.”
“The benefit of it is just the drama. That’s the main thing for us,” he continues. “During the pandemic, we had to show our art through a medium of a screen and a video. You can’t always emit those emotions that you want to through a video. There’s that missing link of the physical.”
You had your first runway show two years ago, and you just showed your most recent collection in New York Fashion Week back in February. What are the benefits to showing your collection in this way? And how do you prepare for such a big event?
There’s no preparing for the madness that is a fashion show. I mean, it’s like any other production, whether it’s a play or a concert or a football game or the national championship. You work until you get to that moment and then you just leave it all out on the floor. Sometimes it’s well-received, and most of the times it’s been well-received. So, I’ll just leave it there. The benefit of it is just the drama. That’s the main thing for us. During the pandemic, we had to show our art through a medium of a screen and a video. You can’t always emit those emotions that you want to through a video. There’s that missing link of the physical. It’s when it’s in the physical world, and then you see how the garments fall in real time. You see the models, how they’re presented in real time, the music, the smells, whatever it may be. It’s like all of this is bringing you into our world, which we are creating every day.
Fit Four
Jacket by Maison Margiela, T-shirt by 1K Corp, jeans by Who Decides War, sneakers by Rick Owens, and watch by Rolex.
“I think personal style is just how you feel when you wake up in the morning,” Bravado says. “In the beginning, when I was younger, it was a cloak to cover my insecurity. It was a way to get attention from girls.”
“And then I was like, ’Okay, now it’s more than attention from girls. It’s like everyone’s really vibing with this. Maybe I can do something more than just style,’” he continues. “It’s just me being comfortable and not thinking about too much.”
How did you hone your own personal style?
I think personal style is just how you feel when you wake up in the morning. In the beginning, when I was younger, it was a cloak to cover my insecurity. It was a way to get attention from girls. And then I was like, “Okay, now it’s more than attention from girls. It’s like everyone’s really vibing with this. Maybe I can do something more than just style.” It’s just me being comfortable and not thinking about too much. I don’t need to be seen or heard anymore. I mean, not that I don’t need to be, but…
Your clothes don’t need to do that for you.
Yeah, I’m respected enough that I don’t need to go in a room and be head-to-toe down for someone to be like, “Oh, I love your outfit. What do you do?” I’m wearing a white tee and a regular pair of jeans and it’s just like, “Oh, this is Ev. Oh! You do Who Decides War.” I’d rather have that type of vibe now and just be more stealth mode.
Fit Five
T-shirt by 1K Corp, jeans by Who Decides War, and Terminator sneakers by Nike.
When it comes to brands other than Who Decides War? “The homies’ brands, for sure,” Bravado says. He mentions Alex Digenova, Bstroy, Denim Tears, Kusikohc, Far From Privacy, and Pale USA. As for “all-time favorites,” Bravado looks to Virgil Abloh’s work at Off-White and Louis Vuitton, as well as Rick Owens and Ralph Lauren.
When it comes to downtime, “I’ve been trying to find a hobby, but relaxing is the most important thing to me, whether it’s going to the spa or just vegging out watching TV, or going to dinner,” Bravado says. “It’s just relaxing and not focusing on work.”
What are some brands, outside of your own, that you appreciate and purchase?
The homies’ brands, for sure. Definitely Alex Digenova is one of my favorites right now. He’s been working for a long time and I think now he’s finally having his time, so I’m very proud of him. Bstroy is another brand that I really enjoy. Denim Tears. Kusikohc. I don’t want to forget anyone cause that’s when it’s like, damn… Far From Privacy. That’s my boy Tavian’s brand. Pale USA. That’s another one that’s cool. We collaborated with them. And then when it comes to my all-time favorites, of course, Virgil’s one of my favorite designers. Everything he did at Off-White, everything he did at LV. Rick Owens, Ralph Lauren, I think those are the crux of who I am as a person when it comes to clothes, fashion, DNA.
When you’re not working on the brand, what do you do with your downtime?
Just relax. I think that’s the most important thing. I’ve been trying to find a hobby, but relaxing is the most important thing to me, whether it’s going to the spa or just vegging out watching TV, or going to dinner. It’s just relaxing and not focusing on work.
If you had to wear one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it be?
White tee and a pair of Who Decides War jeans, of course.
These ones you’re wearing right now, or something simpler?
Something simpler. If I had to do it for the rest of my life, I would probably just wear a light wash pair of jeans and just let them go with time. And Rick Owens Dunks.
Christopher Fenimore is a writer and photographer living in New York. Working with clients ranging from clothiers to vineyards, he’s also covered street style for a number of outlets. Follow him on Instagram at @c.fenimore.