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As yet another celebrity skincare line drops into our Instagram feeds, a shift is starting to occur. Where once we welcomed an A-lister launching a beauty brand as a rare and exciting event; a way to access their go-to liquid lipstick or game-changing serum, now the mood is changing. SKKN, Rhode, S’Able, The Outset, AF94, Cosmoss, Le Domaine… the list of celebrity lines launched in 2022 alone is extensive. But, as with our post-noughties rejection of famous name fragrances in favour of lesser known, niche scents, has the over saturation of celebrity beauty lines led to its own downfall?
There’s no denying that earlier instances of A-listers entering the beauty sphere delivered sought after, considered products that served a need – Fenty Beauty almost singlehandedly changed the game for representation, pioneering 40 plus foundation shade ranges. But, as more and more celebrities realised the lucrative opportunity in expanding their personal brand into beauty, short term, attention seeking drops replaced thoughtful, quality formulas. When asked, ‘Why are you launching a beauty brand?’ the answer became simply, ‘Why not?’
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Recently, Brad Pitt’s addition to the celebrity beauty soup, Le Domaine, hit headlines – people were done. Of the decision to launch, he said simply in his press release: ‘Le Domaine is not meant to be a celebrity brand. It is an anti-aging cosmetics range for every man and woman. I love the idea of a genderless line.’ The actor’s foray into £240 moisturisers – despite what seemed to be little previous interest in skincare – sealed the fate for fellow famous names that might be looking to profit from throwing products at our social media feeds and hoping something sticks. Finally, the worm had turned. ‘Beauty experts, brands and enthusiasts have had enough of celebrities entering the industry without true passion and expertise—they’re calling them out,’ explains Global Director at Wunderman Thompson Intelligence, Emma Chiu.
Leading the charge for change is a group of indie beauty brand founders, such as Elth’s Sam Freedman, who directly addressed Pitt via an open letter. ‘Over the past few years, it seems that every celebrity feels like they can waltz into the industry that we have worked in our whole careers and gain the awareness overnight that we are so fighting for. You, dear celebrities, have NO experience in this industry,’ the letter reads.
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A frustration that’s seemingly shared by many. ‘While the letter is addressed directly to Brad, it represents a build up of frustration from within the industry,’ says Molly Hart, founder of. B Corp brand, HIGHR. ‘Celeb lines are adding saturation and needless waste to the industry – an industry that is actually full of hard working, smart professionals who are trying to solve real issues and gaps in the market.’
But, this isn’t just about celebrity-targeted bitterness. At a crucial point in time where sustainability is as much about what you don’t produce as what you do, endless throwaway drops of expansive (and expensive) beauty lines, whether made from recycled glass or no, is surely 10,000 steps in the wrong direction. Thankfully, there’s a new wave of famous names dipping their toe into beauty with sustainable growth, rather than slapdash skincare, at the forefront of their ventures.
It’s about investing instead of adding. ‘Instead of creating yet another product in a market, why not partner or invest in the founders already innovating to fill real user gaps? I think it would brilliant if this led to more meaningful collaborations that make the global beauty industry more impactful,’ says Winnie, founder of conscious wellness site, Caara. Something Dua Lipa is committed to with her latest role as major shareholder in haircare brand, Dizziak. Speaking on her beauty investment Lipa said, ‘Dizziak truly is in a category all their own, and I’m so thrilled to be an investor in their journey. When I was first introduced to the brand, I was drawn to their ethos of making healthy hair care products accessible to people of all hair types.’
Category is: supporting existing brands that have purpose, expertise and integrity. ‘Beauty is a really personal journey and people want to see that from the people behind the brand,’ says Chiu. ‘From investment and hires, to collaborations and brand ambassadors—people will be expecting these tie-ups to have intent and purpose.’ Take, for instance, Terri Bryant hiring Selma Blair to be Chief Creative Officer of Guide Beauty, a brand with a mission to make beauty tools and products more accessible. As someone who’s openly spoken about her experience with multiple sclerosis, Blair’s pairing with Guide feels thoughtful and appropriate.
Maude
Similar collaborations include Dakota Johnson who not only invested in chic sexual health brand, Maude, but also undertook the role of Co-Creative Director, whilst Serena Williams invested in shaving brand, Billie, saying in a press release, ‘I’m proud to become an investor in Billie, an inclusive female body brand that’s raising awareness and tackling this inequity head on. The shaving industry is dominated by male brands which have traditionally overcharged and underserved women.’ Whether altering the conversation around sexual wellness, empowering Black-owned businesses or addressing ingrained gender issues within the industry, these beauty alliances are pushing for progress, not profits. ‘Authenticity is key and Dua’s investment is truly authentic to what we do,’ says founder of Dizziak, Loretta De Feo.
The bottom line is, just because you can launch a beauty line, doesn’t mean you should. ‘Everyone has a space in our industry – the question is how do you fill the real gaps? By releasing a brand with just a known name backing it? Or by helping and supporting those that are actually making a change in this space?’ says Ksenia Eytan, cofounder of skincare education platform, Lion/ne. There is another option. Celebrities channelling their support (both financial and promotional) towards small businesses that stand for something will ultimately benefit us all. To any celebrity out there thinking about creating a new beauty line, why not do as Dua and Dakota did instead? Back slow beauty over smash and grab sales.
As Freedman puts it, ‘There are so many inspirational industry-led founders affecting real change. If celebrities could better utilise their expertise, audience and capital to support them, what we can achieve is huge.’
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