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On home soil, Tish Weinstock, Poppy Delevingne and Camille Charrière welcomed in January wearing slithers of dresses that chimed with the gothic decor of their manor house surroundings. “There’s something incredibly empowering about a naked dress – it’s a true celebration of your body, just as it is,” says Weinstock, who believes both a visible thong and more substantial briefs work equally well for 2023’s rear focus, as long as you feel comfortable in what you’re exhibiting. “Baring one’s derrière looks best when teamed with something vintage, which keeps the trend elevated,” she adds. “I would avoid bodycon because I think it takes away from the titillation of seeing flesh under diaphanous material.”
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We should really have seen the bum backing into plain view at the tail end of the spring/summer 2023 shows, when Sarah Burton hailed the return of Alexander McQueen’s legendary bumsters. “To me, that part of the body – not so much the buttocks, but the bottom of the spine – that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body,” Lee McQueen said upon unveiling his builder’s bum-enhancing trousers as part of his first collection, entitled Taxi Driver, in 1993. Burton honoured the designer’s ode to anatomy by posing the question: “How do you dress a woman to empower her in the times that we live in?”, and creating tailored low-risers for strong-minded females unafraid to wriggle into very, very small crotches.
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