Fashion: Reinventing the corset – Hindustan Times

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Fashion: Reinventing the corset – Hindustan Times
Fashion: Reinventing the corset – Hindustan Times

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The Minoans, a Greek civilisation that resided on the island of Crete, were the first to wear corsets. Since then, the corset has made its way around the globe, from the affluent French women’s wardrobes of the 15th and 16th centuries—the corset’s “golden era”—to regency fashion, punks who traced their history in Victorian-style corsets, the Vivienne Westwood runway, and Jean Paul Gaultier’s pink satin corset for Madonna. It’s now seen a resurgence, thanks to Netflix’s Bridgerton series.

Traditionally worn as a restrictive, yet indispensable, undergarment, corsets are now a style statement that you can flaunt, and of course, are now more freeing than restrictive, having left the ugly, lace-up, hard-to-wear format in the past. It’s easy to wear your Victorian, Elizabethan, Edwardian or Regency core romanticism—here are seven modern interpretations of conventional corsets and how to wear them.

The Ruched Empire-waist

The styling needs to be minimal and sharp since this is the main element to be highlighted (Raj K Raj)

These gorgeous ruched Empire-waist corsets were popular throughout the traditional Regency period. This is a flattering option, since it slims the waist and emphasises the bust, especially when worn with gowns.

Recreate the look

These gorgeous ruched Empire-waist corsets were popular throughout the traditional Regency period
These gorgeous ruched Empire-waist corsets were popular throughout the traditional Regency period

 Pick a ruched corset dress that mimics a Regency short corset shapes and contours the body.

 Wear this with coordinating gloves, see-through stilettos, and a statement jacket.

Expert speak

Nilesh Parashar,
Nilesh Parashar,

“The styling of the corset needs to be minimal and sharp because it is the main element to be highlighted,” advises Nilesh Parashar.

Dior’s Basque corset

This can be styled up to be glamorous, or dressed down to be minimalist and edgy; Corset by Pink Porcupines; Coat and pant by Freakins; Shoes by Steve Madden (Raj K Raj)
This can be styled up to be glamorous, or dressed down to be minimalist and edgy; Corset by Pink Porcupines; Coat and pant by Freakins; Shoes by Steve Madden (Raj K Raj)

Corsets can be a fun element in your everyday wardrobe, particularly in the style of Dior’s basque or guêpière corset—commonly known as a bustier. Dior’s classic, ‘The New Look’, which was first seen in his collection in 1947—has a type of bodice that either extends below the waistline or over the skirt with a V-shape and close contoured fit.

Recreate the look

You’ll need a bustier, a waist cincher, and a garter belt
You’ll need a bustier, a waist cincher, and a garter belt

 You’ll need a bustier, a waist cincher, and a garter belt.

 Wear a long coat that falls just below the waist to complete the outfit.

Expert speak

Nivedita
Nivedita

“Modern corsets are a dream come true in your wardrobe and can be styled to dress up your look to be opulent and glamorous, or dressed down to be minimalist and edgy,” says fashion designer Nivedita.

Edwardian style

It goes well with a skirt or denimS, but it looks equally good with a lehenga or a saree; Corset by Lea Clothing; Coat by Mellow Drama; Shoes by Aldo; Neckpiece by Forest of Chintz; Saree by The Summer House (Raj K Raj)
It goes well with a skirt or denimS, but it looks equally good with a lehenga or a saree; Corset by Lea Clothing; Coat by Mellow Drama; Shoes by Aldo; Neckpiece by Forest of Chintz; Saree by The Summer House (Raj K Raj)

The Edwardian era’s contoured corsets have a rhythmic movement. These “S-bend” corsets were intended to be more “natural” and “healthy” than its predecessors.

Recreate the look

The Edwardian era’s contoured corsets have a rhythmic movement
The Edwardian era’s contoured corsets have a rhythmic movement

 Wear a simple Edwardian corset with full-length net sleeves and a classic Indian saree in the Gujarati style. Add a gold choker to complete the look.

Expert speak

Shivangini Padhiyar and Rekha Datla, founders of The Summer House
Shivangini Padhiyar and Rekha Datla, founders of The Summer House

“The corset is such a versatile garment that it can be styled beyond imagination. It goes well with a skirt or denims, but it looks equally good with a lehenga or a saree,” affirm Shivangini Padhiyar and Rekha Datla, founders of The Summer House.

Regency wrap stays

You could also wear a long shirt dress or slip and style it with a corset belt; Corset by Pink Porcupines; Shirt by Reistor; Coat and jeans by Freakins; Shoes by Carlton London; Earrings by Bhavna Trikha (Raj K Raj)
You could also wear a long shirt dress or slip and style it with a corset belt; Corset by Pink Porcupines; Shirt by Reistor; Coat and jeans by Freakins; Shoes by Carlton London; Earrings by Bhavna Trikha (Raj K Raj)

The Regency stays were the lighter alternative to a full-blown corset and were typically long, reaching the hip bones, with shoulder straps. The shorter, wrap versions were easier to adjust since they didn’t have hooks, and were likely also used to sleep in.

The shorter, wrap versions were easier to adjust since they didn’t have hooks, and were likely also used to sleep in.
The shorter, wrap versions were easier to adjust since they didn’t have hooks, and were likely also used to sleep in.

Recreate the look

 Layer a criss-cross halter cut-out bustier corset over a basic long, white button-down shirt or long tee.

 Add chic stilettos and long contrast shrugs to enhance the look.

Expert speak

“You could even wear a long shirt dress or slip dress and style it with a corset belt,” suggest Shivangini Padhiyar and Rekha Datla.

Renaissance style

Style this with a tailored suit or keep it simple and style it with denims; Corset by Pink Porcupines; Jeans by Freakins; Shoes by Zara;Earrings and bracelet cuff by Forest of Chintz (Raj K Raj)
Style this with a tailored suit or keep it simple and style it with denims; Corset by Pink Porcupines; Jeans by Freakins; Shoes by Zara;Earrings and bracelet cuff by Forest of Chintz (Raj K Raj)

During the Renaissance-era, Catherine de’ Medici enforced a ban on thick waists for those attending her at court in the mid 1500s, thus bringing the corset into fashion, creating an hourglass silhouette with its lacing and whalebone stays. This also introduced the world to the sweetheart neckline, which has since accentuated corsets and other hyper-feminine silhouettes for centuries.

During the Renaissance-era, Catherine de’ Medici enforced a ban on thick waists for those attending her at court in the mid 1500s, thus bringing the corset into fashion
During the Renaissance-era, Catherine de’ Medici enforced a ban on thick waists for those attending her at court in the mid 1500s, thus bringing the corset into fashion

Recreate the look

 Wear a matching denim set, with a corset that has a vibrant, shiny, sweetheart neckline for a sleek look.

Expert speak

“Like the Americans do, ladies can style corsets with tailored suit pants, black shoes and sleek hair, whereas youngsters keep it simple and comfortable, styling it with baggy denim trousers,” says Nilesh Parashar.

Victorian drama

Team your corset with a diamond choker and jacket, or a diamond set and a saree; Corset by Siddartha Tytler; Skirt by RISA by Renesa Rastogi; Coat and jeans by Freakins; Shoes by Steve Madden; Earrings by Bhavna Trikha (Raj K Raj)
Team your corset with a diamond choker and jacket, or a diamond set and a saree; Corset by Siddartha Tytler; Skirt by RISA by Renesa Rastogi; Coat and jeans by Freakins; Shoes by Steve Madden; Earrings by Bhavna Trikha (Raj K Raj)

Victorian corsets are over-the-bust corsets that slim the waist and create the traditional hourglass figure.

The bustline is curved, the neckline is usually sweetheart, and the bottom is pointed.

Recreate the look

 Keep the corset short, breathable, and with simple fastenings.

Victorian corsets are over-the-bust corsets that slim the waist and create the traditional hourglass figure
Victorian corsets are over-the-bust corsets that slim the waist and create the traditional hourglass figure

 Tulle, fine netting, and oversized corsages can all be used to create a statement if you want to commit to the Victorian-era look.

Expert speak

“A corset in your wardrobe is worth an investment. Team it with a traditional uncut diamond choker and a jacket, or a diamond set with a saree. Accessorise it with traditional potlis,” says Nivedita.

From HT Brunch, November 5, 2022

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