The First Issey Miyake Paris Fashion Week Show Without The Designer

At the start of the Issey Miyake SS22 collection unveiling today in Paris, there was a moment of silence for the designer who passed away from liver cancer in August. With the lights down low at the Paris Convention Center, his photo appeared on screens around the room with a quote by Miyake and the sound of birds chirping. The quote read: “I believe there is hope in design. Design evokes surprise and joy in people.” The audience erupted in applause. A solo pianist took to the baby grand piano on the runway and began to play the keys, as well as the treble strings, dampers, and bass strings.

On every seat placement was a note from Satoshi Kondo, lead designer with words in memory of Mr. Miyake. “We see design as a process driven by curiosity, built upon a comprehensive exploration-brining joy, wonder, and hope to life, and of course with a touch of playfulness.”

Themed A Form That Breathes, the collection is all about sculptures, shaping and forming with one’s own hands. This idea translated to the sartorial story of the collection, of 3D looks made with one piece of fabric from clay shapes. This technique is called torso. The material is firm yet flexible, and the three-dimensional silhouette and draping is created by wearing the garments, like a sculpture on the body,” describes the House.

Torso juxtapose includes bold prints on this same kind of fabric, also created from these clay forms. Using vivid pigments, the print is thickly and firmly applied by hand to the base,” continues the House.

This is a true craftsmanship collection. Every detail was thought out. The Resonant Suit, seen in the collection is made from fabric that is as the House describes: is folded and partially hand pleated in a circular shape. These pleats represent life’s cycles and rebirth.

The R Coat in the collection is created from lightweight yet stretchy material that has been treated with a water-repellent finish for functionality, while the R Shirt uses cotton for the warp, while the weft is made from special nylon stretch yarn that is fine and soft, shares the House. Both of these pieces are created from the curves of shoulders to the cuffs. Piping tape made from repurposed upcycled fabric is sewn to produce a curved silhouette that goes to the cuffs.

Various looks give off a bounciness, a technique by the weaver that makes the look, look like a living statue. This is called linkage and as is noted, “is a seamless knit series made from recycled polyester that makes the creative use of the roundness and sharpness that appears when various knitting techniques are combined.”

The polyester in the collection is made from a 100% plant source, and one in collaboration with Toray Industries, Inc. The fiber also doesn’t use petroleum in its source.

As the show was coming to an end, before the finale, dances entered the runway space and began to dance. Miyake was actually one of the first designers to spearhead this in the 90s, incorporating the art of dance on the runway with the art of fashion. And for the finale, one set of models dressed in lighter colors walked down the runway and began to dance as well. And then another set of models in colorful looks joined in.

A legend that is already missed, who joins a line of other great designers that have passed in the last year makes the fashion community realize how fragile life is. But the legacy of Mr. Issey Miyake lives on.