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Indeed, the details of Kardashian’s efforts to transform her body into one that fit the dress — the 16-pound weight loss in under a month and the 14-hour bleaching process to approximate Monroe’s white blonde hair — suggests Kardashian’s desire to embody, rather than pay homage to, Monroe.
As Greene observed, “I don’t know how to explain what she did because it was so very subtle, but she turned something on within herself that was almost like magic. And suddenly cars were slowing and people were turning their heads to stare. They were recognizing that this was Marilyn Monroe as if she pulled off a mask or something, even though a second ago nobody noticed her.”
This story has become part of the mythos of one of the greatest stars of the classic Hollywood era. It captures an indelible aspect of Monroe’s legendary appeal: the idea that the real her was somehow distinct from her celebrity persona. And within that notion is also the tantalizing prospect that one might be able to access that authentic Marilyn — if one only continued to investigate the details of her films, her life and her death, a crusade that shows no sign of slowing as new biographies, documentaries, online speculation and more continue to emerge year after year.
Whereas Kardashian has made a career blurring the line of what’s real, Monroe excelled at masking it. Monroe’s public image was so flawlessly executed, performed and presented that decades later, we are still eagerly searching for the woman underneath it all.
Yet what Kardashian does offer — and what might actually be in service of Monroe’s legacy — is to make visible the labor of image creation, something that would have destroyed the mysterious allure of the Monroe persona in the star’s own time.
What criticism of Kim Kardashian is really about
But her attempt to embody Monroe’s persona is a new threshold in Kardashian’s often-problematic efforts to play with her racial self-presentation.
Kardashian has often adopted Black cultural signifiers as part of her personal aesthetic, invoking Black style for a white mainstream audience. Her jewel-encrusted grill, Fulani braids that she credited to Bo Derek, and her imitation of a famous Grace Jones photograph for the cover of Paper magazine are three of the most-discussed examples.
Indeed, Kardashian’s seeming pivot from someone associated — even problematically — with Blackness, to her momentary transformation into the blonde-haired Hollywood icon reinforced the idea for some that Blackness was a temporary stop in her sojourn to unambiguous Whiteness and respectability.
On the other hand, preservationists registered their horror at the handling and exposure of the historic garment at the gala. While Kardashian certainly wasn’t the first celebrity (or even noncelebrity) to wear a vintage or archival garment, this particular line of criticism quickly became the focus of the ire directed at Kardashian.
It’s worth noting that this conversation is the one that has dominated public discussion raised by Kardashian’s adoption of Marilyn’s persona. Preservationists’ very real concerns about the dress itself, however, provide a convenient cover for a more ideological criticism — that Kardashian disgraces the legacy of Monroe by daring to “become her” for a night.
Video circulating of one of the dress fitting appointments quickly prompted derisive remarks about Kim’s “fat ass” or the disconnect between her skin tone and Marilyn’s, comments undergirded by racial connotations. Such an argument depends on assumptions about Kardashian’s racial performance, as well as on critiques grounded in taste, respectability, celebrity and authenticity.
This line of critique effectively contrasts Monroe’s classic Hollywood film icon status — established in films like “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes,” “The Seven Year Itch” and “Some Like It Hot” — positively against the negative of Kardashian’s “being famous for nothing” status, earned in the reviled world of reality television.
Marilyn Monroe, proto-reality star
But those formulations — valid though they are — miss the deeper resonance of what Kardashian’s public display of the dress signifies about Monroe and how her history has been deliberately revised.
Start with the fact that the dress that Kardashian chose to wore is not one associated with Monroe’s film roles or even the one most readily associated with Monroe as icon: that would most likely be the white/ivory halter dress designed by William Travilla for Monroe’s appearance in the Billy Wilder film “The Seven Year Itch.”
Rather, Kardashian wore the gown from one of Monroe’s appearances in what we might understand as a predecessor to modern reality television: JFK’s televised/recorded birthday party at Madison Square Garden.
The pleasures that make the moment iconic — the context of Monroe’s and Kennedy’s relationship as Monroe seems to flirt with her lover in front of both a live and televisual audience with the knowledge that his wife Jackie is at home watching — is perhaps closer to the melodramatic appeal of contemporary reality television than classic Hollywood cinephiles would like to admit.
Indeed, the gown Kardashian wore represents a particular aspect of Monroe’s celebrity — infamy rather than fame — and Monroe’s unique ability to take something scandalous and embrace it rather than allow herself to be shamed by it.
Our never-ending desire for the “real” woman
There is not an aspect of Kardashian’s life that has not been mediated and offered up to the public, at Kardashian’s own hands. Crucially, whereas Monroe struggled to obtain professional agency throughout her career, Kardashian effectively owns her own image.
As executive producer of “Keeping up with the Kardashians” (E!, 2007-2021) and “The Kardashians” (Hulu, 2022– ), as executive producer of her life and image, we might argue, Kardashian’s version of the “real” is the one that she chooses to share with the public rather than one that the public can take pleasure — and ownership — in uncovering.
Monroe, and the studio system and its attendant publicity machine, presented the star as the guileless bombshell: a sexpot whose crucial appeal was that she didn’t seem to be trying to be sexy — she just was — effortlessly.
Kardashian could never put on a dress and be Monroe, but perhaps that’s because there is no “real” Monroe to become.
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