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Mumbai: Man’s fashion has certainly taken a back seat at Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) for the last few years, however, this year it brings exclusive men’s edits by three labels, Countrymade, Son of a Noble Snob and Khanijo on the very first day of this five-day fashion extravaganza.
Countrymade by Sushant Abrol
Starting with relatable and wearable designs, Countrymade made by designer Sushant Abrol sets the mood with a regimental flavour and longing for a friend’s return and loved ones or even a soldier through the collection.
Taking a cue from the battlefield of physical and emotional turmoil, Countrymade unveiled a line of vintage, military, cropped jackets along with more simplified options of the M65 and HBT22 jackets. The workwear shirts appeared relaxed and comfy, while the bottom wear was the perfect combo.
The textiles selected by the designer blended with the military combat, also presenting a new age of men’s clothing. Set on a natural line of heavy linen blends in a variety of hemp, cotton, twill, handloom, denim and silk, the embellishments were as sturdy and masculine as the base fabrics, as striking prints brought a great visual story on the ramp. The molten camouflage treatment along with bleeding camo hues for checks and bruise stitches projected the right hardy regimental touches. Hand knits and crochet patches along with up-cycled textiles and woodblock prints presented the nostalgic touch of the inspiration to centre stage.
Son of a Noble Snob by Mani Shankar Singh
The second show was brought by Son of a Noble Snob by Mani Shankar Singh. Based on the theme of ‘The War Within’ the collection of this deep and esoteric theme, the menswear line was an interesting study of silhouettes, colours, construction and style. Fabrics that waged a fashionable battle for attention were restricted to just pure linen. The colour story demanded a strong earthy palette with black being of prime importance, along with a variety of monotones.
With strong sportswear influences, the collection also interpreted Indian silhouettes with a global touch that brought forth geometrics, asymmetric cuts and contemporary shapes, which proved immensely wearable. The collection resonated with the theme of war through the prints.
Khanijo by Gaurav Khanijo
The third showcase was by designer Gaurav Khanijo of the label ‘Khanijo’ which was high on fabrics and sustainability. With blacks and greys, the collection was themed around ‘Birth of Labyrinth’ inspired by the Greek mythical Artificer Daedalus’s labyrinth, which was believed to be a symbol of confusion and disorientation.
Gaurav’s collection presented looks that were very style oriented and emerged from a surprising state of stale products. Designed creatively from fabrics that had piled up as dead stock in the designer’s studio. These were amalgamated with great skill and talent into patterns that were juxtaposed with materials, colours and textures, which were all aimed at starting a global fashion conversation.
Known for his ingenious achromatic colour blocking, there was a marked intelligent focus on texture blocking that was visible in the novel shapes.
There were traces of illusion, as the collection moved from casual to formal wear. Loose, comfy silhouettes, inventive touches for trousers, sharply cut jackets and easy-on-the-eye shirts and tunics brought unconventional looks for the fusion menswear story.
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