Akris Celebrates A Century In Fashion With Time-Defying SS23 Collection

Set in the forecourt of the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris and the Palais de Tokyo overlooking the Tour Eiffel, Akris’ SS23 runway show celebrating the brand’s 100th anniversary is a packed affair. Sat along each side of the square courtyard, the mood is cheerful and light as attendees find their gifted chocolates and umbrellas (suitable as it poured the next day in Paris) featuring the brand’s notable heart prints.

Founded in St. Gallen in 1922, the Swiss fashion house started off as an atelier for aprons is now synonymous with minimalistic chicness and understated luxury. Albert Kriemler, the label’s Creative Director, is one who truly understands — and delivers season after season — refined and sophisticated styles in clean lines with a versatile edge.

Kriemler selected nine pieces from the Akris archives for his book: Akris — A Century in Fashion, and these archive designs between 1978 to 1992 became the foundation of the Spring Summer 2023 collection. Showing a staggering 74 looks during the show, Akris’ new season pays homage to the brand’s long history with references to these key styles throughout.

“I like fashion to surprise. It’s progress, it’s energy, it’s strength.” Kriemler shared in notes speaking of these styles, and states that he knew right away that “they were new, unexpected, and in perfect proportions of today. They made me think of something different to celebrate 100 years, something you would normally not presume.”

The show opened with the Alpha — the first Akris cashmere double-face coat, created by Kriemler’s father. One of the nine styles from the archive, the buttery coat in camel brown is elevated with miniature tote bag and laced-up, leisure-luxe flat trainers.

A series of styles followed, continuing Akris’ signature aesthetics that is sleek, demure and elegantly classic — but with a touch more sass and sex appeal. Exaggerated shoulders with ruffles, see-through dresses made in metallic laces, billowing sleeves, deep V-cut necklines and high slits, the Swiss femininity is upgraded with a flare of post-pandemic boldness and festivity.

The Hearts print was another piece of history utilized in the SS23 pieces. “Fashion never is a solo love affair,” Kriemler says. The Hearts was the first Akris print (Fall 1989) created by Gianpaolo Ghioldi, Kriemler’s valued print manufacturer in Como, Italy. “It was the foundation of our own way to the future, to design collector’s prints coveted by the women who wear them for years.” Kriemler shares, noting that “none is more enduring than the heart…; and love; and a precious collaboration of creative craftsmanship and sense of color that has lasted for over 30 years.”

With WE ARE POEMS represented in Ugo Rondinone’s visual cosmos proudly on display in the show’s background, the collection’s vibrancy shone through in the rainbow of colors seen on a variety of silhouettes.

You can now watch the show at www.us.akris.com.