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In fashion, as elsewhere, the show must go on. Other than some London Fashion Week schedule changes due to Queen Elizabeth’s funeral, the Spring 2023 fashion season seemed like a return to normalcy after years of pandemic-related disruptions. There were again celebrities in the front rows and A-listers on the catwalks, full glam teams backstage, and product launches and after-parties aplenty.
Further, there seemed to be a (broader) return to the idea of the fashion show as spectacle. The Gucci Twinsburg runway show exclusively featured identical twin models, while the Balenciaga show took place in a Parisian convention centre-turned-mud pit. Most memorable of the season will be the already infamous moment at Coperni, where a dress of non-woven fabric was freshly spray-painted onto Bella Hadid (in real time, unrehearsed).
Still, on the whole, designers presented a more mixed picture — one that feels authentic to the uncertain time we’re in right now. The spring runways featured power suits for the office and dreamy gowns for the galas that are back in full force, but there were also moments of dishevelment, post-punk-inspired looks, and collections that touched on topics like nuclear fusion and climate change (Chloé) and ocean plastics (Botter). Normal, as it turns out, remains complicated.
Here are six of the top womenswear trends for Spring 2023.
Undone details
Raw hems and deconstructed garments have been part of the fashion offering for decades, and this season saw more of this type of visual discombobulation. Designers showed misbuttoned blouses, blazers worn askew, heels held in hands and, at Prada, creased garments and intentionally imperfect hems.
They may be small details, but these styling and finishing choices — intentional flaws built into the looks — felt like an acknowledgement, of sorts, of the chaotic times and a challenge to the facade of perfection seen on many other runways.
Sheer skirts
Whether layered over lingerie or worn solo, sheer clothing has become a fashion favourite over the years. For Spring 2023, there were many see-through dresses and tops, but there were also a slew of sheer skirts across runways, adding an unexpected aspect to outfits.
At Molly Goddard in London and MSGM in Milan, A-line tulle skirts were worn with coordinating underwear. Dsquared2 showed see-through mini and pencil skirts with shirts and blazers, while Prada had sheer knit midi skirts that looked like an update to their Fall 2022 style.
Green daze
We’ve seen plenty of neon green over the past few seasons at fashion week and in stores. But this season, designers also gravitated toward other, gentler shades of green like chartreuse, lime and avocado.
In addition to green being perfectly on-theme for spring, these greens flatter many skin tones and can be worn head-to-toe. They were key colours at shows like Givenchy, Ester Manas and Fendi, and made brief but impactful appearances at Balenciaga and Loewe.
Matching sets
If last season’s slouchy, oversized suiting (which remains very popular!) is too structured and formal for you, but you still want a look that’s “put together,” it’s an ideal time to consider the matching set.
There were soft, pyjama-style pant and short sets at Adam Lippes and Bally; patterned co-ords at Brandon Maxwell, Toga and Batsheva; and oversized shirt-and-pant combos at Ulla Johnson. Bonus: These ensembles all seemed designed with comfort and movement in mind.
Statement gloves
If you invest in one accessory for spring, make it a fabulous pair of gloves. Statement gloves can complete an elegant look or add interest to an otherwise ordinary one. This fashion week, designers styled short, elbow-length and opera gloves with everything from crop tops to evening dresses.
There were black latex gloves at Prabal Gurung and Victoria Beckham; sheer and embellished styles at Adeam, Deveaux and Antonio Marras; and gloves cut from the same material as gowns at Bottega Veneta, Yuhan Wang and more.
Sculptural shoes
Comfy sneakers remain a popular footwear choice (even with eveningwear), and Fall’s chunky platform shoes and boots will continue to trend for the coming season, but there’s also a renewed movement toward positively sculptural shoes — some that verge on the impractical.
A few highlights: Loewe heels made with deflated balloons; platform sandals at Proenza Schouler featuring allover padding; sky-high clogs at Etro; and the oversized shoes at Botter designed to look like they’re suspended in water — fitting given the brand’s focus on ocean conservation.
Truc Nguyen is a Toronto-based writer, editor and stylist. Follow her at @trucnguyen.
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